The rise of the collegiate dandies

A random college boy patiently stands in line, waiting for the Andrew elevators. He’s donning a medium wash denim jacket over a clean, white button down Oxford shirt with the second-to-the-top button undone. Below, he’s wearing a pair of casual navy chinos rolled up to the ankle; he intentionally foregoes the socks. He compliments the whole ensemble with spotless leather Stan Smiths and a Draper-esque side part. Such an image, although striking, is just one out of countless others that can be seen throughout the University—which has, over the past few years, become a melting pot for various dapper young men.

Out and about

Nowadays, the sight of men around the campus donning pieces such as bomber jackets teamed up with slim cut trousers isn’t as uncommon as it would’ve been some years back. According to Kyla Olives (CAM-ADV, ‘14), photographer for the now defunct Fashion Four Point Zero, a web blog that was dedicated to documenting what Lasallians wore inside the campus, there is indeed a huge difference in terms of how Lasallian guys have presented themselves over the past few years. She remarks that the collective style consciousness of past male students was rather formulaic, as opposed to its current state. “I remember seeing people wear regular jeans and shorts with a basic shirt. There was really no need to look so put-together except of course for a few people who chose to wear polo shirts. But now, there are more men who look more put-together and fashion-forward than before,” she confesses.

In relation to Olives’ remark, fresh graduate Franchesca Buencamino (AB-OCM, ‘15) has observed that different subgroups of male students have emerged within campus based on their style of clothes, with each clique evidently reflecting a certain subculture. She lists down five to her knowledge: the skater boy, the hypebeast, the conyo kid, the preppy, and the regular dude. The skater is characterized by hoodies, loose t-shirts and skate shoes, preferably in brands such as Vans and Nike SB; the hypebeast, arguably the most trendy of the lot, is dressed in longline tops and a pair of expensive sneakers—think Yeezy 350s; the conyo is distinguished via his plain Ralph Lauren tees and swim shorts that end lower to mid-thigh; the preppy is recognized through expensive watches, loafers, and a penchant for collared shirts; finally, the regular joe is a strict believer in normcore. Low key basic pieces such as t-shirts and jeans are their go to outfits.

The exact nature of what motivates men to suddenly “dress to impress” remains debatable. Olives, for one, attributes it to the recent invasion of popular foreign high street brands such as H&M and UNIQLO. “I think a lot of fast fashion brands are setting up store in Manila. Since these brands are more affordable, we have more access to fashionable clothing at competitive prices,” she tells us. Garrich Flores (III, AB-LIM), on the other hand, believes media has had a lot to do with the normalization of men’s interest in the upkeep of their personal appearance. According to him, it’s only natural for guys to want to look good. “The typical straight guy would think ‘oh, since everyone’s doing it, I guess it won’t be unusual for me to be vain.’ He won’t be stereotyped as gay or whatnot because it has become normal to dress up.”

Better haircut, #BetterDude?

In the millennial age of everything artisanal, “the usual” just doesn’t cut it anymore. Pun intended.

In response, the past years have seen an influx of specialty barbershops. One of the first of its kind in the Metro, Felipe & Sons prides itself in being a “barberdashery”—a portmanteau of “barbershop” and “haberdashery”. The place sets itself apart thanks to an equal blend of Victorian-style furniture and modern grey brick walls. Aside from their hair cut and luxury shave services, they also offer shoe shining and tailoring services, to complete the bespoke male.

Tucked in one of the smaller side streets of Makati, on the other hand, is Back Alley Barbershop. If Felipe & Sons caters to the refined, modern-day Ilustrado, Back Alley brings back timeless, old school swagger. Under the tagline, “#BetterDude”, their barbers use only the finest tools of the trade—from feather blades and samurai scissors, to mineral shampoo and a variety of pomade. Its four walls also house a vinyl player where customers can play their own records, vintage posters, and a mini bar that offers Japanese beer and whisky.

This demand for more R&R also hits close to home with Titan, one of Taft’s very own barbershops of the higher tier. According to Onel Lazaro, their product specialist, male customers have become noticeably pickier with the type of hairstyle they want. As opposed to the usual walk-in, they now opt for reserved time slots. “Most of the time, they come in with pictures of celebrities whose hairstyles they want to copy,” he shares. The most requested hairstyle? Tapered (or shaved) on the sides, leaving the top thick with room for combing, a vogue quite reminiscent of 1940s to 1960s gentlemen. Indeed these barbershops are a far cry from your corner barber. However, it’s not a competition of 40 vs. 400, as most of these barbers’ roots lie in a strict dedication to their craft.

Feminine fallacies

In 2002, Mark Simpson of Salon.com wrote of David Beckham as the “biggest metrosexual in Britain” to refer to his unusual fascination with his personal appearance. Naturally, the label stuck, and along with it the negative connotation that relates grooming to femininity and homosexuality. In a more contemporary context, however, the term’s popularity has waned. What used to be an automatic equation to vanity and narcissism has become so much more socially acceptable, and not just for the ladies. A true gentleman, it seems, just knows how to take care of himself, with or without that James Dean daydream look in his eye.